Armani's global aesthetic shines in bohemian Emporio Armani show, though designer misses Milan bow

MILAN (AP) — Giorgio Armani’s admiration for other cultures and global aesthetic was on full display at his latest Emporio Armani show, but the designer himself was notably absent.

Armani, 90, skipped the customary bow at the Emporio Armani menswear preview for Spring-Summer 2026 during Milan Fashion Week on Saturday, as he recovers at home. His fashion house confirmed his convalescence in advance but did not provide details about his condition.

Despite his absence, Armani was deeply involved in shaping the collection, his fashion house said, working closely with Leo Dell’Orco, his longtime menswear director, who took the final bow. Normally, Armani would have posed with the models at the end of the show — another signature moment missing.

Bohemian cool for the world traveler

The Emporio Armani collection carried a free-spirited, Bohemian air — a vision for the youthful adventurer who balances comfort with style, ornament with utility. Models sported braids or silver beads in their hair, and layered accessories: beaded necklaces, charms, tassels, and fringes.

Jackets ranged from softly tailored with sweeping scarf collars — ideal for wind and sun protection — to intricately detailed styles with feather-light touches or loose weaves.

Crafted textures and nomadic vibes

Natural fabrics like crepe and linen, often left rough to the touch, contrasted with silky prints inspired by Moroccan mosaics. Trousers varied from gently pleated to dramatically ballooned, paired with long, embroidered tunics.

The traveler’s ensemble was completed with crossbody bags, tapestry duffels, vintage-style suitcases, woven slippers, and straw hats worn low over the eyes, conjuring the image of a man journeying through sun-soaked lands.

A sporty take on desert looks

For the EA7 Emporio Armani line — his sporty offshoot — Armani leaned into more technical textiles. A desert-inspired capsule collection played out against a soundtrack of howling wind, echoing the stark and elemental feel of the clothes as the models strode through the showroom, which was decorated with sheer curtains.

A tribute to Armani's aesthetic origins

The show notes described the collection as “a moment of introspection and identity. Not to pause in contemplation, but to channel new energy into moving forward, while conscious of one’s own origins.”

Armani returns to “shapes and attitudes that have always been present, returning to a founding principle of his aesthetic: A genuine interest in other cultures,’’ the notes said.

Front-row guests included Olympic champion sprinter Marcell Jacobs, actors André Lamoglia, from the Netflix series “Elite," and Michael Cooper Jr., currently starring in the Netflix series “Forever,’’ and NBA players Kawhi Leonard of the Los Angeles Clippers and Anthony Black of the Orlando Magic.